betting odds explained 11-42 10 speed cassette

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Betting odds explained 11-42 10 speed cassette cmc markets spread betting login facebook

Betting odds explained 11-42 10 speed cassette

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Take this example. Working out an implied probability percentage from fractional odds is simple. The basic business model of a sportsbook is fairly uncomplicated. Bookmakers set the odds and take bets on an event. When that event ends they pay out everyone who backed the winner and then keep the rest for themselves.

So, the bookmakers will build something called an overround into their odds. With an total implied probability of Armed with this knowledge of how the bookmakers set their odds, you can concentrate on finding value. They are just different ways of conveying the same information but they do add another layer of complexity.

Thankfully, it only requires simple maths. To go from a fraction to a decimal is as easy as dividing out the fraction and adding one. If you want to go from decimal odds to fractional odds is similarly simple. Any price above evens is known as odds against, while anything below evens is odds on. A long odds shot will provide you with a bigger win but is much less likely to win.

Betting Odds Explained. An example of the various odds available on a typical betting market. What Do Betting Odds Represent? But, consider the following horse race. Bookmakers have teams of traders who set and adjust the odds for each market on their site.

Betting odds have included overrounds even when the first bookies starting taking bets at the trackside. Top Free Bet Promo Codes. Bet Bonus Code Sign up today. Coral Promo Code Sign up to Coral today! Ladbrokes Promo Code Sign Up to get the latest offer.

February Big Matches. Thu 4 Feb. Tottenham vs Chelsea - Prem. This is called "The Spread" and it basically tells you which team is favored and by how much. When betting the spread, you are betting that a team will win by a certain number of points, runs, or whatever. Here is an example to help you understand point spreads in football. If Team A wins, but only by 3 points, then you will still win and get paid. There are over and under betting odds for pretty much every sport including baseball, football, hockey, UFC, Basketball, Horse racing, and much more.

If the number is 42 in a football game and you bet the over, you would need 43 points total between the two teams. In baseball betting, it is the number of runs scored that sets the total. Hockey totals are how many goals will be scored between both teams. With the spread and the total, you will occasionally see that the odds are distributed with "half points," which are in place to prevent a "push," or no one winning or losing the bets.

As long as there is a winner or loser, the sportsbooks will make their money on the juice and be happy. The truth of the matter is that Vegas pretty much sets all of the sports betting odds for the entire world. Anytime you hear someone asking or talking about Vegas odds, they are simply talking about the odds and nothing specifically related to Vegas.

All of the online sportsbooks use services that simply use the Vegas odds as a starting point for events. Then their own systems will adjust the spread depending on how people are betting at their sportsbook. Exotic bets are there to make for a more entertaining betting experience, but they work somewhat differently compared to the straight bets.

But, the original point spread is still used in all these bets no matter how you look at it. Parlays are essentially a combination of two or more bets into one, such as three teams winning their respective matches. These parlays are usually a long shot since so many teams have to win, but in the end, they are also some of the highest paying games.

You can pick teams to cover the point spread, over or unders, or moneylines in a parlay and sometimes you can mix in different sports. Pleasers are some of the highest paying bets, as they take the spread and then subtract points, making it harder to succeed.

Then you also have to combine them into another bet of the same type in order to win. The payouts are huge, but it is not likely that these will come in unless you have the utmost luck or some sort of inside knowledge. Teaser bets bets are the exact opposite, in that you can adjust the spread to be more favorable, thus lowering your payout but increasing your chances of winning.

Either way, these are some of the more exciting ways for you to wager. There are also " If-Bets ", which allow you to combine two bets. The first bet has to win for the second bet to have action. If the first bet fails, the second bet doesn't come through. If you win the first bet, you can then use the winnings on the second bet, essentially building your bankroll.

American odds have become incredibly commonplace, despite the fact that they are not as easy to read as other formats. As an example, American Odds read like this:. In the example above, you can see that Team A has the lowest number of the group and are considered to be the favorite to win this bet. And, with a little bit of manipulation, you can see how these odds will pay if the wager ends up being a winner and that is what we're all here for Fractional betting odds are the easiest to understand.

Just about every single sportsbook that caters to Americans has the option available for fractional odds. And, while they may seem daunting at first, you don't really need to understand complex fractions in order to utilize these odds. Let's look at an example:. In order to best understand these lines, you first need to look at the ratio to 1.

Once you have determined this, you can figure out the favorite. To figure out which side is favored, you simply need to figure out which is the lower number. Fighter A's wager is the clear favorite as it is the lower number. So, how do you figure out what these pay? Anytime fractional odds are displayed at a value of less than 1, the bettor must risk more than they intend to win if the wager is a winner. And, the opposite can be said for if a fractional value is more than As you can see, the payouts are in the fractional odds, you just need to know which way they go based on if they represent a value greater than or less than one.

Decimal odds are slightly more confusing than most other types of odds. In fact, we prefer not to use them when we bet but that is just our preference. Regardless, we are going to give you a little insight into these lines, as we want to give you insight about all of the common types of odds available. If you look into these odds, you will definitely come out a little bit confused unless you are from Europe where these odds are commonly used than American or Fractional odds.

The multiplication game is not as straight forward with decimal odds. Let's take a look at another example:. When looking at decimal based odds, the same thing applies to them as all the other forms of odds when trying to determine the favorite In the example above, the favored candidate is Candidate A at 1.

Figuring out the payouts is where decimal odds can get tricky, but you'll soon learn a little trick that will make these very easy to understand. Be sure to keep that in mind when looking at the other odds types. Now that you understand how to read odds, you will then want to see how they are adapted to the different betting lines. With the straight wagers and exotic wagers alike, you will find that these odds are worked into the lines. After you figure out how to read the odds, you will then have to figure out the different types of bets that you can find through most sports betting sites.

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The Bikepacking Journal is our printed collection of inspiring writing and beautiful photography. Find details here alongside a growing collection of web exclusive features Have one to share? View All Features. The fourth issue of The Bikepacking Journal hit mailboxes this spring. Take a peek inside here, along with details so you never miss another issue again In this feature story, Ben Page offers a reminder of the value of getting out on shorter, simpler trips, instead of getting wrapped up in planning something big But is it wide enough?

We got a hold of a group for photos, gearing analysis, and actual weights. Find all the details here…. With the accuracy of AXS electronic shifting and 12 closely spaced cogs to move between, there are plenty of options to shift into a gear for the ideal cadence. But did they go wide and low enough? Here are the details about each component. Plus, scroll down to find detailed analysis of the gearing and a table of prices and actual weights from our scale.

Most notably, SRAM added spacing between the chainrings and crank arms. Pushing the chainrings outboard provides a wider chainline and allows more clearance for fatter tires up to c x 45mm or The change to the width of the crankset comes from the longer crank spindle, which moves the arms outboard by 2. The cassette has 12 tightly spaced cogs with a single-tooth jump between the lowest four gears, two between the second four, and a maximum of a four-tooth jump between the highest four.

With this, the top-end gearing is great. To illustrate, here are the gear inch calculations for common all-road gravel sizes. From my personal experience, I like to have a granny gear for bikepacking with about gear inches, depending on the type, length, and scope of the trip.

As an example, during our recent trip in Colombia, which was full of incredibly steep pitches, I had a granny gear with about Most of the other riders in our group had 18 or That made a big difference and I suffered a bit, especially at first. All that said, all rides, bikes, loads, and people are different.

TomBasic Jan 1, at Below Threshold show comment. I have been using the General Lee cassette from Leonardi Factory,beautifully machined from one piece aluminum billet and much lighter then the three top cogs on my XT cassette for about Been using for several months now and works flawlessly in all the nasty winter riding conditions here on the East Coast.

I'm thinking about 1x10, and I believe my freewheel hub would be happier with General Lee. Can't understand why Leonardi reommends Long cage X9 for 42t, while Oneup states Medium cage would work. WAKIdesigns Jan 1, at Longer the cage better the shifting, however worst the chain tensioning. Id say for single ring setup with long cage you'll need a narrow wide chain ting or proper chain guide with lower roller.

Medium cage works bad enough for chain retention but short one won't work with a 42t cog. I use Med on ,but do agree on long cage for 42t. I think I will test 1x10 with 40t as bigger cog, as I don't want to replace rear derailleur or I'd waste large part of the saving over xx1. Someone should tell oneup their "compatibility" page is a bit optimistic on medium cage derailleurs.

Doumbogey Jan 1, at Very happy to read this today, as I have already ordered a black version few weeks ago I also ordered a 16t cog to replace both 15t and 17t. Up front is matched to a X9 crank with a direct mount 28t narrow wide gear from Works Components. I'm ending up saving close to gr with the removal of my chain guide, front derailleur and spider Can't wait to try this set up Am I the only one who thinks its funny that guys are stoked to have a 28 on the front?

When i started mtb the granny gear was a 26, lol. Bring some 40 teeth for us 9speed cassette dinosaurs!!! I may be missing something but the point of the Oneup cog seems to be that you can run your current hub rather than a specific hub to accommodate a cog smaller than 11T. The Canefield solution is much more costly once you factor in new hub and new cassette.

I know that but just saying its the best system and I hope is the future. So I was just trying to put the word out because don't think most people are familiar with it but I could be wrong. I think the Canfield setup looks great. I was just about to go for it but I had already bought a new Shimano cassette and Canfield hub requires Sram.

I'm also wondering if you could use this Oneup with the Canfield hub for an awesome range. That with a NW 30 tooth up front would be perfect for me. That's a really good idea but I think you would need to remove the 16t conversion cog leaving you with a jump from 13t to 19t.

Correct me if i'm wrong. Interesting idea! As front chainring sizes below 30t are limited, perhaps I could get away throwing away my horrible x9 crank with 28t ring with BB drive side plastic cone sliding outwards to the right and creating play in the crank -- buying a reasonable not NEXT 30t Race Face SS crank with better BB- and all that because I could switch to 42t in the back. Don't worry if it does not make sense, you have to be someone like me riding through this not so pleasant experience of lateral play in the crank However, I need to know how likely is this new ring to score the free hub body.

And that is a crucial question for expensive hub owners. It would be nice to see this kind of review- heavy dude pedalling uphill on North Shore for 6 months and then showing us pictures of damage is any. Then I will splurge bucks Honestly, I hope Shimano comes up with reasonably priced SS cranks in the range of or so interchangeable rings.

Mine is in the mail. Can't wait! I love how everyone is saying you must not be fit if you need this.. Meanwhile SRAM is selling 1x11 by the boatload.. Also do you not think it kind of matters where you live? As in some areas are more hilly than others? To everyone talking about "just get fitter" - I've been running a 1x9 with a 32 up front recently. Well done yous.

Cslo Jan 2, at As an employee of a small bike shop I would like to point out that this company is direct only and will not be selling to LBS's. Wolf tooth components will be producing a similar product which will be both made in the USA and available from your local bike shop. Deroy Jan 1, at Lol at the people coming out of the woodwork to question the utility of this gadget.

Well, some people actually earn their descents. I done some maths on a calculator, and if the maths are right, this is what came up. If you had to set your bike up with a single chain ring in front with a 36t and a 42t in the back removing the 17t , you would have the same gear ratio as if you had a single chain ring in front with a 30t and a 36t in the back.

AaGro Jan 1, at Only on the granny end without doing any math, just assuming you are correct. Think about the faster end, same 11 tooth cog, 36 vs 30 ring. I'm thinking you'd spin out the very frequently. Depending on your local terrain of course. Sorry dude - you're wrong Aagro yes your right in fact I was referring only as the same ratio as on the granny, lowes gear vs lowes gear I just forgot to state that, thank you for pointing it.

And Rubber-Ducky your right to 31t would be the closest but since no one will make you a 31t I thought id make no sense saying that a 31t is the perfect ratio on granny mode but thank you for pointing that too. I noticed that many people are saying that you will never use the so, low gear, but have you even thought that the reason in the first place to use this 42t ring is to go for a front single speed, and if you had a 36t single ring in front with the 42t in the rear it's the exact as when you are in your granny 22t in front and 26t in rear so it's no more easy to pedal then that gear ratio you already have, it would not make sense to do the 42t in the back if you are going to keep your 2x speed in front, but then again it would be stupid to read this review if you don't want to change to a single chain in front, because that's what the review is all about!

One up components: I have one major concern, and perhaps its been addressed somewhere in the general comments: typically the largest cogs are held together with pins and mounted to a larger shim on the freehub body to do 2 things: stabilize the cog from bending under non-linear loads like when you're cross-chaining on a 2X or running a 1X setup , and to keep the full torque and long lever arm afforded by the larger diameter cog from gnashing into the freehub body.

The smaller cogs don't afford as much torque, so it makes sense to keep those separate. With this new cog, I wonder how many freehub bodies will be destroyed? The only solution to this is to instead make the cog a little wider, and then get rid of the 11T cog, which is already wider Anyone have any thoughts on this?

I would love to buy this, but am worried it will gouge my cassette freebody as already happens enough with the smaller cogs on my dt swiss and i9 hubs. OneUpComponents Plus Jan 2, at Thanks for the questions. Regarding stabilization of the sprocket.

The standoffs that are located around the ring make contact with the backside of the 36T ring. In doing so, the 42T ring can not flex outward when cross-chaining. We have not had any issues with gouging freehubs. This is a more complex issue than just pedalling torque. The reason that people myself included see damage to their freehub in the 13,15,17 positions is not due to straight pedalling torque.

These are the gears you're in when you get on the gas out of a corner or hammer up a short pitch. It is the shock load created when the freehub engages combined with thin steel cogs that causes this damage. In our experience, this shock loading is significantly lower when you're spinning your lower gears.

I hope that helps. Thanks for the response. Just wanted to make sure this was thought about up front. Indeed, a higher-pawl cassette goes a long way towards decreasing that start-up shock. Would love to be able to take one of those cogs out to compete at Snake Creek Gap this winter. Just finished the 1st of 3 icy cold races across some of the rockiest trails east of the Mississippi.

Could have used a smaller cog to spin through the rocks! As soon as I stopped using my 22t granny I was able to make all those tech climbs I had struggled with for lack of torque The only reason I would want something bigger than 36t in the back was so I could run something bigger than 38t in the front..

Im now running a 34t front cassette and dont really know why people would want less top end than that? I actually preferred a 36t up front.. No problems doing rides with over 5,' of vertical of climbing.. I also dont understand the hate for the front mech.. But then your bike wouldn't have the cool 1x DH look. Yeah, a front derailleur is probably the most reliable part on a bike.

Everyone I ride with around here Northeast that went single-ring this year rode less and pushed more which equals less fun It is all about fun, after all. Absolute Black has something like this but lighter and with better machining. But 40t "only", like general lee so not sobad of a range but i'll be happy with 42t, leaving me a bigger chainring upfront.

Each find it's best. Oh weight difference is marginal. What would be the best size front ring to match up with this? I'm thinking 32 or 34 for general trail use and steep climbs!? This setup looks genius! You could go bigger than that. I run an t cassette with a 32t front ring, and that's on a 29er so the gear inches are higher.

Hmm my largest ring at the rear is 32t, my middle front ring is 32 also, I frequently use my granny ring for the steep loose climbs around my area. I guess I'll have to count some teeth and do the maths to see what I can get away with.. FastDHR Jan 2, at Expensive and made from aluminium. It would see a lot of use on my bike and would not last nearly as long as a steel ring. How about a nicely machined stainless ring guys?

How often do you honestly stay in your granny for? I bet it still lasts longer than a chainring. I stay in the 36 for the majority of some of my climbs. Hate the color. Nothing a little White Lightning degreaser wont fix! So happy to see this.

Best buy one before the lawyers find a way to shut it down. I hope they can't, but you never know these days. Patents tend to stifle innovations like these. I am more interested in mirfe ritzel thing. Pleas pm me if you have the info. Actually Sram and Shimano are probably really happy about this 42t cog. As the derailleurs start exploding, their sales will go up! I know Shimano expressed concerns with free hubs not be able to withstand the forces of a 42 tooth cog.

Both the XX1 and X01 systems use a one piece cassette to distribute the forces throughout the entire free hub body. I like the idea here but am personally going to wait for long term tests to make sure this product does not become known for causing hub issues or premature wear. On another note I choose a system like this one over the Sram systems because I don't like Sram drive trains.

Every time I rent a bike with a sram drive train I leave the trail frustrated from shifting problems. That includes the XX1 drive train. So for some of us it is not about the cost of an XX1 drive train but simply preference of Shimano.

On a third note, when will Shimano get on board with 1X drive trains? This is only a concern if you plan to keep your 22 or 24T granny Which we do not recommend. Anything bigger than a 26T ring on the front will put less torque into the freehub than a typical granny ring. Thanks for the info. I run a 30t or 32t single ring so should not be a problem.

Do you have any plans to make a full 10 speed cassette? If you are a light rider it is ok to keep the granny. Under lbs. I totally get and understand the need for this ring. For a few of my riding buddies, it's the need because their bikes came with a 32t 10 sp. This mod makes perfect sense. Stick it to them PB. But me? I'm not sure yet. So just to throw out my front derailleur which doesn't cause issues rear more than front to be part of the "single ring" crowd, it just isn't fiscally smart SRAM, Shimano, are you listening????

It would be hard to give up the Saint clutcher, running my 28t x But I think short cage would work with a I've trying stretching it out past the 36 and there is plenty of room, with maybe a longer B screw. Build a 40 and I'm in. AmbientLight Jan 2, at I'm fat, really unfit and running a 1x9 setup with rear and a 38 tooth front on my 29er. I have problems with my front wheel lifting and wandering on steep climbs long before I run out of gears.

Just like everything else in life, it seems you can save your money and put in the effort to get where you want, or you can spend the money to get to the same point in a much easier fashion. To each their own i guess I was 16 stone of unfit 38 year old man, 34 tooth front with a rear and could climb anything on that why do you need more?

Looks good to me for SoCal - San Bernadino mountains. A typical ride for me is 7 miles, ft gain Monroe Truck trail. I'm oldish and ride for fun. I have used one of these with a 36t front chainring. It worked great until I put the power down in the smallest gear and the chain kept slipping due to the fact that there is not enough chain wrap because the b screw has to be wound all the way out.

I tried it with a new chain and cassette and it still slipped. Once I wound the b screw back in it was fine but I couldn't get into the big cog. I do have quite strong legs so this may not be a problem for everyone but it isn't a solution for me. On another note I pulled a 16t cog off another cassette and replaced the 17t on the cassette to make the jump less dramatic.

If only I had these 42t when I first started mt. Biking 13years ago cause I was 20lbs overweight and rode a steel frame monster! The more I rode, the stronger I got, I've no use for it now. Good thing though, cause I would have stayed unfit and fat. Bobbyincle Jan 5, at Incidently, if it was a simple one cog replacement, wouldn't Sram have addressed that? That said, I'll probably give it a go, any new technology carries an element of risk.

Going though and reading the garbage that some of you write is just hilarious!!!! Go get a job and all your complaints will end! Money cannot be taken with you, so spend it and have all the fun you can while you can! My suggestion is for you to get out of MTB all together! Maybe step onto a beach cruiser with a 6 pack rack and show your strengths on the seat of one of those FlyingWok Apr 26, at I did it today on my new Marin mount vision xm8 , but I had to take 13tooth out instead of 17 and I have to take off about half of a millimeter on the 11 tooth ring by sand paper as it leaving not enough gap that cause chain just rubbing on chain stray.

Matzotom Jun 1, at What's with all this anger? I wish that I didn't have to work 12 hours a day and lived closer to any real off road riding spots than I do then I'd have the time and opportunity to get fitter as I believe the best way of improving fitness for riding is riding itself. In the meantime, I have ordered a 40t one up ring. It's my personal choice to help me get more out of my ride. If this product doesn't suit your riding style or is unnecessary because of your superior fitness and strength, then good for you.

It's not necessary to tell others what they should be doing. Not all riders from the UK are so arrogant. Jenbury Aug 31, at Is this thread still open? Would my rear derailleur take this new size? I'm no bike mechanic Appreciate any help or advice. Whats the big deal about a 42 cog? How often would you use that cog anyways? You will probably get up the climb quicker hiking the bike, instead of sitting in the sadle spinning away to seemingly nowhere.

Hammm Jan 1, at Thats not the point. Why would i want to walk a bike when i can ride it. Having this low of a gear is really useful when riding up technical ascents where spinning those pedals is key. If you are running a 42t rear you'd better be running something bigger in the front. This super low gearing is silly. I haven't used a granny ring in many years. I don't like to spin. I'd rather stand and mash it out. But that's just me. DrSanchez me too, which is why I ride rigid SS mostly.

I'm not well "trained". Its just my preference. Sorry dude, couldn't resist. Not a personal dig! I am baffled why anyone would use anything but a 1x10 though. I admit that some peoples terrain may necessitate taking bigger bikes up bigger hills but I've ridden all over the UKs trail centres last summer on a 1x10 and never run out of gears. Up or down. Hammm Jan 3, at Anybody running derailleurs is a complete Pussy who should not be on a bicycle. Is it supposed to boost my ego if I say stupid tough guy things like that?

Didn't work for me. I live in the peak dude. I'm glad to hear you say that, I often find our local rides far more demanding than trail centres. I still think that 1x10 is plenty, the ability to climb comes down to more than just gearing. I'm not a super fit Xc racer, I'm a weekend warrior. My bikes not an Xc bike, it's a steel hardtail with mm forks that is set up well for me personally - The way everyone's bike should be.

Fair comment mate,used to ride 1x10,but either I'm getting old or-unfit,probably a bit of both to be honest. Wanted to go 1x10 but not giving up my existing drivetrain as well as moving to SRAM this seems like the solution - now to look for a chain guide and new ring.

I'm sorry but i just dont find this useful whatsoever, youre risking breaking your dollar deraileur, the extra cog is just so high geared that youre never gonna use it and most of all it cost bucks, Overall i think that if shimano or sram had thought it was a good idea they would have implemented it. Their products go through tons of tests to get the best ratio but this company apparently think that they are out to get you. Sshredder Jan 1, at Want one. Hundred bucks verses thousands for Sram set up.

One ring up front with a mega climbing gear!!!!! With the correct spacers you can mount this on an old 8 speed cog set. Re: comments about where Shimano are while all this is going on. Nantwich-Flyer Jan 3, at T-woot Jan 3, at I honestly think the drivetrain debate is hype. If you want the lightest go 1x Whatever and get your leg strength up.

Taboot, it has a better up shift feel by far compared to Shimano, however one way lever engagement and single downshift are the bumps they need to conquer to completely beat Shimano. The way the part is made will not work on some hubs. Make sure your hub will fit properly. The cassette adaptor needs something to back up against. And this cassette dose not sit against the high parts of the free body only the low parts. So if u have a king hub or a hope it will not work.

Google some images and then look closely to what will stop the cassette from going on to far and hitting the spokes or hub body. It's a good idea. Just needs some refinments. And will work on mavic hubs, easton. And lots of other hubs that have a flat serface to sit up against. I think its a great idea.

You get more range out of a 10 spd dirvetrain so dont need to run more then one front ring. Do you know if it will fit Crankbrothers Iodine hubs? How long before other companies start making these? Absolute Black does a 40 tooth, will that work with a short cage RD? And has anyone tried to use a short cage RD with this chainring? Just curious. In theory it should. I think X9 short cages have a capacity of 30T, so it should be able to take up the slack in an Although things in theory don't always work in practice.

True that! An X9T2SC is what l have and what l will try. Put some bloody leg muscle into it, damm. Now those same dudes want cool looking single ring drivetrains like their fitter friends run. They're happy, Oneup's happy, everybody wins.

Smell-The-Glove Jan 1, at All the british hate in here is purely misdirected anger at losing the ashes to Australia and probably going , so now one-up is copping the blame. Don't think it will work mate. Shimano do 2 Zee short cage rear mechs I have the T and would also be interested whether it works OneUpComponents can you tell us?? Based on the specs of the Zee derailleur it shouldnt work. Meaning is the max you could go otherwise the cage won't take up the chain slack in the smaller cogs.

Just read below I'm out! I was tempted by this i currently have 32t front and t rear but I love my Zee clutch derailuer but as its short cage it looks like it aint gonna work, although as others have mentioned I also use zee with , and got an answer form oneupcomponents that it would not work, BUT than i saw this thread here: singletrackworld.

How would you explain it, other than that it is possible?! It may be physically possible for example if you have a slack chain, it will stretch around the 42 gear OR, you could just go to this guy: www. Granted, this option will be heavier than the aluminum offering, here. What if the smallest 11T was remove instead of 17T.. It would provide a smooth transition between all the gears till the 42T is reached.

MTBR did a review too and someone did mentioned that would be an option too. My mongoose special from Costco had this gearing, it was called mega-range. I didn't know I was ahead of my time when I was GravityPixel Jan 4, at After a few try's i use 36 tooth in front with a hope chainguide.

It works great! Hayduke74 Jan 4, at The raging intolerance of some of the posters on this thread is amazing. Kimbers Jan 1, at Does it shift better than the general Lee? Can it shif worse than General Lee? Only had issues with that one, including cassette lockring getting loose all the time. So i've been hesitating paying again for an adaptor but the price of sram xo1 shifter and derailleur are very hard to justify so i made the jump and just ordered this one up thing.

Looking forward to receiving it! You won't be sorry,and a weight saver too! I went with and fits my needs nicely,no complaints! Has shift ramps and have no shifting or loose lock ring issues after several months of almost daily use? Russyh Jan 1, at I dorms have any shifting issues with my general lee.

Whatever happened to unsprung weight?!?! I couldn't see it working, especially on a full susser with some chain growth at full travel. We don't recommend the Zee or Saint RD. It may work on some low chain growth or HT frame designs but will get you into trouble on other setups. That is where I would think the potential problems would occur. I thought the Zee's only had a capacity of 25T, meaning that would be the max range it could handle and still take up all the chain clack in the smaller gears.

I am using a short cage 10 gear SLX shadow plus , with a 9 gear sram trigger together with a 9 speed cassette including the 42 chainring on my enduro lapierre spicy Nobody ever thought this could work but it did. If you are willing to try and error and perhaps modify the rear mech its possible.

Most of the cases you only need a longer c-screw. I could be wrong but I thought both of the Zee versions still had a 25T capacity. Is there alot of slack in the chain when you have it in the smallest cogs? DC Jan 3, at I can't imagine either version has a different capacity as that is dictated by cage length and they are both short cage.

Well if you have the slack on the small cogs that would make sense, and is what I thought would be the case. But hey, if it works for you and the extra slack isn't an issue, then thats great. Now wait until February booo.

Everyone rides different I guess and I like mods like this so I'm all for it. I ride with a 34 up front on a and barely ever use the 36 or 32 and hardly ever out the saddle when climbing so it does make me wonder whether these super low gears are really necessary. I suppose it would allow you to winch a DH-end machine up but in such a low gear you lose all momentum and tech stuff just stops me dead.

Maybe my bike isn't heavy enough to necessitate the low lows Legbacon Jan 1, at Maybe you don't have the long and steep climbs that others do. In my group everyone has and uses a granny every ride because we ride in the mountains. On easier more rolling terrain I can do without the granny but that is not the norm here. I regularly ride on steeps and on long ascents. I wouldn't have made the comment otherwise, it wouldn't have been valid.

ClarkJordanP Jan 1, at You clearly haven't been to British Columbia or the northwest. I think it all depends on the terrain. I use an with a 32 up front and never have a problem. I barely use the larger 2 gears. But the mountains where I live just aren't that big. I do think that many riders could get by without the easier gears if they just got out of the mindset that they are there to bail them out.

But there is no doubt it many areas it's needed, even by strong riders. CJP - not sure why that's relevant at all? My terrain is bigger than yours? Or something? Sino - I agree with you, I think people should look at other ways to improve climbing technique rather than just sticking these crazy low gears on. That said if it makes your ride more fun then why not. Would be good on a 29er maybe?

Cuz you'd crush big mtn climbs anywhere without even using your 32 or 36 and totally in the saddle on your amazingly light bike. OR you could increase your front ring size and have a faster fast gear and the same low gears.

More range is better for more people IMO. Listen people I'm sorry if I hurt your feelings by implying you're a pussy if you use super low gears, it's not what I meant at all. My mates all ride granny on climbs and they are pussies but everyone on pb is super hardcore, particularly those from canadimerica.

My point is, as cool as this ring is, should we really be striving for lower gears? At 3mph are you even really riding? Nato - good point. But increasing front ring size is detrimental to a 1x10 setup IMO. Still think you're right that more range is better for more people though. Riding pretty much stopped but not putting your feet down and still making a section of trail is a pretty rad feeling even you are using "pussy gears" Fighting on the inter webs is like winning the special olympics, even if you win your still phucking wee tard ed.

How would it be detrimental? Just wondering. Lack of ground clearance? I didn't realise it was a fight? I guess I'm super retarded. My trials bike doesn't have gearing this low. Yeah one of the main reason I like a 1x10 is the clearance and weight saving so a large ring goes against that a little. That's just me though, I do like the idea of more range and still having a 1x I'm just not sure it needs to be all on the lower end..?

LOL no fight, sarcasm button broken. I think working on fitness and technique is more important than trying to compensate by adding a larger gear. I rode a fully rigid 29er with a 1x10 32t up front t back for several months on some very steep technical terrain. It was damn painful and hard as shit the first few weeks. But after the second month and a few hundred miles I was killing ever climb and even taking on stuff I could never do on my old more traditional bikes.

Sometimes not being a bitch is hard but it always pays off. Granted, not everyone bikes for the same reasons. I bike for the challenge, others might bike just for the scenery. JohSch Jan 2, at GB has like no mountains. I see why the OP needs no granny. TheDude88 Jan 1, at Looks great, i would prefer it to be made out of steel. ReformedRoadie Jan 1, at Awesome way too add a big hunk of rotating weight…It would also tare apart you free hub body.

Aluminum is a much better choice because it can be made stiffer thicker without a significant weight penalty - so it won't fold over or flex like early Shimano XTR cogs did when they upped to the 36t the aluminum carrier solved this. Also, where the 42 engages the spline, Oneup made the cog the full width of the sprocket and its spacer, so it won't gouge into the freehub spline like a thin steel cog would.

Only available in green and black? Are they trying to make it look like a dork disc on purpose? Looks pretty sweet to me. I'll be riding one this spring. Ordering it tomorrow. HxxJuan Jan 2, at I'm a Freerider and i got a full Saint transmision Is that sproket compatible? PS; Srry for my bad english. This cassette adaptor does not fit all hubs. It won't work on a king or hope. And some others. So just be careful.

Look into it first. Genius, amazed its taken so long for someone to come up with this. I still want to see a 40t option in blue. Rocky-Urban Jan 1, at And they probably are a bit unsure of how many units they will move. As soon as you move out of your parents basement and enter the real world, this will all make sense Its basically exploitation.

I'm sure many wouldn't buy this ring simply out of spite. Plus all the gear. Let's be real. Rocky-Urban Jan 2, at They'll be too slow to climb using this gear! They should make a 40t. I think Absolute Black is doing a There is a CZ company offering 40t chainrings called Colonel Werk 10speed www. If youre running 32 or 34 in the front and a rear on a 6" travel bike, you have nothing to complain about!

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NorCalNomad : haha I moded up my nukeproof with one up and I had 34x40! I am not in rush uphill. I love to go fast downhill fastish. I am nearly 50 oh shit. EnduroManiac Jul 16, at NorCalNomad : I had a 32x TW80 Jul 16, at Session Jul 16, at Below Threshold show comment. TW80 : Flava Flav necklace!? Sounds like cultural appropriation to me.

Atone for your whiteness, Levy. PB staff: I demand immediate termination of Mike Levy's employment and financial compensation for the pain he caused. Apologize for being complicit, TW Light-hearted laughter is violence. Session : hmmm Unless I am incorrectly reading your reply So no apology given.

Jammerlappen Jul 16, at NorCalNomad : in noffin is rong wif fffad. Why we use 12 speed? Because manufacturers want to sell stuff and places like Pinkbike find specious arguments in their thinly vailed commercials to encourage people to buy! After a decades we have reached the point were a 1x is heavier than an old 3x, and carries a large amount of range that you do not need.

They are actually detrimental. I used a Garbaruk 11 speed and now mostly go I might get a Garbaruk 11 speed next and be very happy. Session Jul 16, at TW80 : Seems absurd, doesn't it? Session : You are a moron. Hopefully someday, when this pandemic is over, we can grease up and wrestle out our differences. Don't forget, we're all in this together. NorCalNomad : and on 26"?! As much as I am loathe to admit because I hate front derailleurs. Sram front derailleurs were better than Shimano's were.

NorCalNomad : Still run 1x9 on my bikes. Saint derailleurs still work so why not lol. Just because you can't, doesn't mean you don't have to - SRAM. Whipperman Jul 16, at The question is what happens next. A 13 speed? Cheaper wireless?

Or nothing, because e-bikes do not need in the first place? Thecolterrgeist : i did until just last week. My brother keeps asking why i go up hills in 4th gear and im like oh yeh, i have 3 granny gears???? Prof Jul 17, at You would be a lot faster without the weight of that cassette. NorCalNomad : I recently moved to 34x42 from 36x36 in my trail I'm tempted to go back to 36 in front because going fast is good but you either go fast or you die. NorCalNomad Jul 17, at Session Jul 17, at Maybe all of the white privilege around here has made all of you hetronormative oppressors forget that chains are a symbol of slavery.

Everyone using a chain on their bike is advancing the white power structure. Sleep well, bigots. Session : chainless mass protest lap down A line for a good charity? SPKeen Jul 17, at Unless you need a huge cog up front for some reason, 1x11 is just fine. Lighter, more durable, shorter cage Have you ever ridden a 28 tooth chainring with eagle?

It'd be faster to carry your bike up the hill than use that granny gear. Youre pretty much doing a trackstand at that point. Paddock22 Jul 16, at Now I have 30t w t 12 speed. I get around slightly slower but I can spin at a more comfortable cadence up the steep stuff. You're right though, when I'm trying to ride a tricky uphill tech section, I'm usually a gear or two down from the 50t otherwise you're moving too slow.

Ya i was on 28t on 1x11 and it was a bit ridiculous I now have eagle and I definitely use the 50t sometimes but very rarely, and that's with a 32t chain ring. I cannot imagine climbing with a 28t on a 52t cog. Are you even moving at that point? You really do adapt to whatever your setup is. I used to run 36t up front with my spread out back and it was fine Haha, there's so much chest thumping going on around here. I'm going to raise my hand and say that I like speed drivetrains.

I regularly use that or tooth cog with a tooth ring up front, and I don't feel guilty at all when I do. Now if they can just figure out how to make a shorter cage derailleur to work with that big cassette Jurf Jul 16, at My wife really loves it on long climbs. We can,t have all superman legs. If Levy would quit hogging all the downcountry bikes I'd still be happy with speeds - I'd just run a 34 tooth ring instead.

ProperPushIrons Jul 16, at This theme continued and I just ran the cassette at 3rd gear most of the time because it seems momentum trumps all on these kinda sections and I even seem to conserve energy on longer climbs with a slower cadence. No bravado. I really think using a smaller cassette is a better way to do mtb. Two very important factors are left out of this article: efficiency and antisquat.

Efficiency: On 12 speed systems, the largest cogs are dished out over the spokes, creating a worse lateral angle and dramatically increasing friction and drag, to the point where the lowest few gears are less efficient than a Rolhoff and comparable to a pinion.

This is why I ordered a box prime 9 and to get larger jumps between gears. Best of all worlds. I recently realized how pointless my 12 speed eagle set up is and how much more I enjoyed the less frequent shifting and reliability of the 11 speed set up. I ride 28t up front with Eagle and for my trails, I'm glad to have it. Yes, it's slow, but it's steep. Sure some hikers pass me but I pedal regardless and that's fine by me. Helping fat old guys not walk no matter what since. It also lets you spin more, rather than slow-cadence grunt it out, which makes holding traction in loose climbs easier.

YES that means sometimes going at hiking pace, but, uh, shouldn't a mountain biker prefer riding to walking? I'm happy to be able to fully ride a climb rather than dismount a few times. Also, someone commented below about keeping your front wheel on the ground I'm on a Nukeproof Mega and struggling to keep the front wheel planted is a thing of the past, even when using my 51t, and I don't even have sit on the nose of the saddle to do it. Ryan Jul 16, at I've considered going up to a This now gives me more speed on my lower higher??

Everyone saying to just go 28t on an 11 speed setup are going to have no top end. I have a fatbike with a 28t and I get to top speed to fast. JSTootell Jul 16, at I raced a 24 hour with a 28t on Eagle. Was I going slow on the big climb? Was I still going faster than the people walking their bikes? Also, yes. I normally run a 32 up front on my E It can be a huge struggle on a lot of the climbs I do. But I hate spinning out on some of the occasional fast DH's.

It's a compromise I make. But regardless, I still use the entire range or on my Shimano bike. Jurf : Sure we can. Choose to get stronger or choose to stay the same. I run a 1x11 set up on my Steed,, 40 tooth front chain ring and a cassette. TheR Jul 16, at I like my 11 speed just fine. Kind of a bottomless feel. That's like running a double transfer case on a 4x4.

LeDuke Jul 16, at But 11 speed ISN'T more durable than 12 speed. Lotusoperandi Jul 16, at I went back to 11spd and don't plan on ever going back to 12spd. Running T cassette with a 28T chainring. Gives me the same climbing gear as my 12spd and I haven't missed the extra gear either. Oh, did I mention that it shifts like a dream? Just as we all remember?

As far as I'm concerned, good riddance 12spd! BenSandle Jul 16, at You just need big chain ring to make it useful and that chainring normally only useful on road. Ryan : 32t chainring with 11 to 46 11s is a load of range, would need to go 34 or 36 with eagle unless you have huge steep climbs. I'm fine with 1x11 on my XC bike where I'm typically hammering uphills, but 1x12 is great for longer trail or enduro rides where you want to spin up at a reasonable heart rate on a 29er.

I recall reading somewhere that Nino runs huge chainrings specifically so he's able to use the big cassette cogs after efficiency testing showed the big cogs lose less watts to friction due to lower chain wrap angle. Konyp Jul 16, at I use 28t with Eagle and like it a lot. I found out that riding slowly when most people are pushing is actually much faster in my type of terrain. Oh, and I hate grinding on hard gears, makes my knees hurt. Plus, the XT cassette has some terrible gap shifting, especially the big gears.

My Reactor came with the same spec and I couldn't be happier grunting up climbs that were previously next to impossible. Did my 11 spd shift better? But the 12 keeps me on the bike longer and gets me to the top faster. ClaytonMarkin Jul 17, at Paddock22 : Yeah, That's why I go Plenty of spin, but I'll walk up anything that really needs more than that. The real question is why we're not1 all riding 13 speed yet. What is wrong with the industry?!?!? Did some of the PB cognoscenti think I was being serious I wonder.

Lotusoperandi : in the same boat as you! I've tried 12 speed twice. Both times I have gone back to 11 speed. This is just because I could never get the adjustability to work like it would on the 11 speed! I'm not a masher so I really don't need the really high gear of a 10t with 32t chainring.

As long as we're using chains to move our bikes, 1x was a game changer because it got rid of the front derailleur, simplified shifting, opened up frame and suspension design options, made room for a dropper remote, and most importantly paving the way for chain retention without a chain guide. I remember dropping my chain at least once every ride.

Now it hasn't happened in actual years. The range of 1x12 is also legit. Anyone who doesn't think modern drive trains are frankly amazing either hasn't been riding very long or has a short memory. My question is, why am I carrying around 12 gears? I use the same three maybe four gears every ride. I'd like to see the same range simplified down to 9, 7, maybe even 6 gears. I wish Shimano would come out with an XT level 9 sp 10 max but I'd be cool with with a wide range cassette.

I also use the same gears most of the time, and I also typically shift 2 gears at a time. I'd be fine with bigger jumps. Box Components has entered the chat I need to. Also personally I would love a 6 speed drive train that just had low to mid range gears and no gears for high top speeds because I usually just coast if am going that fast anyway.

I know I wouldn't. As is, I think that's already the biggest weakness of 1x12, running out of gearing at top speed. I guess I should actually pay attention to the cogs I'm using on a few rides then compare that to the box setup and see if I'd be covered. So to add range to the drivetrain, they have to go bigger on the other end.

Then you just pick the chainring that suits your riding and strength. DirtJumpRyder Jul 16, at MaplePanda Jul 16, at They did just that on BMX bikes. I ran a friggin 34 x 16 on my BMX bike back in the day late 90s , and nowadays they're like 25 x 8.

Notmeatall Jul 16, at My cadence is kind of broad, so it doesn't matter. The jumps are smooth, the quality is good. Only shimano and sram are not happy with this marriage. SintraFreeride Jul 16, at I cut down my cassette to 9 speed. You can probably cut that cassette down to your liking. Smallest cog 15 or 17 would be torture. Good range and I don't think the bigger jumps will bother me. Cheaper much and lighter than 12 speed, but still with that nice gear for the last climb when your legs are shot.

I'm extremely happy with it The shift feel isn't quite on par with the big 2 but it's oh so close. I never get anything but XT level shifter so I can "double" shift with one push of the lever It's not hard. Maybe with a tailwind Not sure who you bike with but they sound like they're all in better shape than my friends and I. Another big logical fallacy that PB seems to be tossing around nicely: "And thanks to improved materials and tolerances, they're also much more reliable overall, even if they can be a little finicky compared to those 8 and 9-speed systems.

See above article mentions of testing thinner chains etc. Has Pinkbike not considered that maybe if this new technology with tighter tolerances and better materials was carried over to these 8 and 9-speed systems that maybe they would still be stronger? IF this were to be done, I would have a drivetrain that's 3 gears lighter, with a slightly heavier but stronger chain, better tolerance to shifting imperfections, a wide range, and a low price.

Oh , and what's that I hear? My cadence will never be very different because any given cog is no more than 3 teeth away from a cog on a speed drivetrain? People ride and can wreck me on singlespeeds, so the cadence thing isn't something I'm going to be thinking much about. Give me a properly updated 9 speed drivetrain from Shimano or Sram with all of the current tech they're using on their "better" stuff, and give me the high gear, the low gear, and like 5 in between and let's see how it compares.

Crampus Jul 16, at Rocking 11spd xt until someone makes something more reliable. Yes I'm from BC, it's plenty short gearing. If I'm going faster than pedaling speed I'm either pumping the bike, not pedaling, or on a trail boring enough I don't care. SoddenDeath Jul 16, at Yeah I'm pretty satisfied with my 30 x T 11 speed setup. I rarely wish for a cog beyond that 46T. Hey, I needed to replace my entire drivetrain last year, and I decided to get the 12 speed Shimano, and it is way better than the 11 asked, so, according to your logic, you must go buy it now lol.

That being said, I live in BC, generally drive to my trailheads, and ride up steep trails all the time, and I'm pretty convinced that I only need 6 or 7 of my gears. I never use the higher gears. I have often wondered how a 7 speed drivetrain with would sell?

I would appreciate the less dish the wheel would require, resulting in a stronger wheel. Derailleurs wouldn't need as much range, so they could probably be shorter cage. Something to think about, because when I go to my local trails, I rarely see anyone riding to them. LRod Jul 16, at WasatchEnduro Jul 16, at Do a 9 speed with 24T chainring.

Bonus antisquat. Poulsbojohnny Jul 16, at Microshift 10 speed. Plenty of ranges, cheap, precise, and reliable. I live in northern BC, run 32x, rarely use the easiest two gears, and would never go back to 11 speed. Its awesome. Losvar Jul 16, at Got a Garbaruk cassette with speed X01 and Garbaruk cage on my hardtail, by far the best setup I've tried so far, and Shimano speed is pretty much the only setup I haven't tried yet.

My Garbaruk setup came in at roughly the same price as my GX Eagle stup, and performs much better, and less sensitive to bent hangers or micro adjustments to cable tension. Will probably go for this setup on all my bikes at some point. You can't shorten the cage just by having fewer gears.

JDFF Jul 17, at My stock pile of fresh XT 11 speed is going strong too! It's the wide range that necessitates the longer cages, so that the derailleur can handle the extra chain needed. Cage length is relative to first gear size not amount of gears.. Cage length of the rear derailleur is determined by the difference between the largest and smallest cog, added to the difference between the largest and smallest front sprockets.

If you look at any rear derailleur, it has a maximum capacity of, for example, 36t. So, if you have a t cassette on a one by drivetrain, your derailleur must have a maximum capacity of at least 40t. The shorter the cage length, the less maximum capacity. A Shimano super short cage road derailleur has a maximum capacity of 33t. That derailleur would work with a t cassette on a one by drivetrain. The longer cages aren't there to handle the large rear sprockets; they are longer to be able to maintain chain tension in the smaller rear sprockets due to the huge difference between the large and small sprockets.

In conclusion, my theoretical system with no high gears, would be able to enjoy a very short cage derailleur. LOL came here to point that out too. You don't multiply the two numbers, you divide. The only reason it worked out was because the small cog was 10t. Take the largest cog divide by the smallest, multiply by because it's a percent. Was gonna post the same thing! Beat me to it! Yup - that hurt, but was fun to watch. Came to the comments to say this, but knew in my heart it had already been said.

Thanks for feeling the need to explain it to us. Exactly what I was thinking. When will someone come up with a 2 speed cassette. All you need is a 49 and a 50 tooth cog. And it would be super light. Everyone wins with Levy math! The industry is keeping us down, I tell you. TerrapinBen Jul 16, at The Holy Grail: 11 spd, , sub gram, durable, affordable.

I own it- E13 Race cassette T. Right about grams. Shame, as the 9t seemed a good idea on paper. Plus it was a lighter cassette. The shifting was always a little clunky compared to Sram or Shimano's cassettes, though, and ultimately I decided it wasn't worth the trade-off. CTDchris Jul 16, at CTDchris : looks like garbaruk also has speed and cassettes.

Agreed, that would be my perfect cassette. It only takes 10 minutes to take the cassette apart, clean, then reassemble with new grease. I'd say that's a fair trade off for the weight, besides its a good reminder to clean and grease the paws of your hub. Well XTR was released with a 11 speed, , sub g cassette. But for some stupid reason decided to discontinue it. A cheaper XT version would be perfect.

David Jul 16, at Workes really really good???? DHhack Jul 16, at Lasts forever, makes you climb faster and teaches you how to pump terrain better. Ride that once a week and your full squish geared rig will feel like a Cadillac the rest of the week and the dh bike feels like a battleship. DHhack : 32x20? Back in the day my riding group would ridicule anyone showing up with less than a ratio, typically 32x XC-oriented singlespeeds though.

I kinda miss riding single. I have a plan for this not the g, much lighter than the 12 speeds at same cost - take a 12sp deore cassette and cut off the 51 tooth cog. DHhack Jul 17, at Good old slow speed New England jank.

HELLO, elephant in the room. There is zero clutch function there, when compared to V2, V3 appears just to be roller bearings under compression. My brand new GX long cage derailer has zero clutch function, straight out of the box. Appears Shimano has sued over the infringement clutch patent design, and won Now that's a news story, anyone got any details on this? Would love to know more about this.

If they can fix those things then it'll be significantly better. Pretty good now but not near awesome yet. Lexatron14 Jul 16, at Couldn't be more pleased with my SLX 1x12 speed drivetrain. Now i am a full convert and had no idea shifting could be so smooth. Welcome to drivetrain enlightenment. It's nice here. Behind it all is marxism making men weaker and destroying western values. Perserverance, hard work, determination all destroyed by the bail out gear that is the dreaded 52t.

This creates soft citizens. Grit has left the western room. This also creates a drivetrain system that is more finnicky, less durable and most of all, not sustainable over years of use like our 10speed counterparts vefore us. The death of the short cage derralier was the beginning of the end of society as we know it, and the 12 speed drivetrain system is proof of that fact.

ExShopRat Jul 17, at Now the kids expect their bkes to stop and handle Sethlv Jul 16, at Microshift Advent X is calling my name. Wide range 10 speed sounds nice. I'm on that now for 1 week, had to import it from Australia, sat in customs for ages, cost me more than an XT in the end I use an XT medium cage with a goat link and RadR cage, its perfect.

Screw you bike industry lol! I just ordered an Advent X drivetrain this week! I'm going to be my own guinea pig so I can recommend this setup from personal experience I'm curious what the gaps between ratios will feel like going from 10spd t to t, given that my legs and my fitness can be somewhat picky about cadence.

Cspringsrider Jul 16, at I can run a bigger sprocket on the front and can climb better than ever for the price you cant beat it. OpeSorryAbootThat Jul 16, at The best part is that Microsoft got to dunk on Shimano and Sram by being lighter thanks to having 2 fewer gears. Dogl0rd Jul 16, at OpeSorryAbootThat : microsoft. Had to read that a couple times lol.

It's great! I'm buying a second set for my other bike but going Advent X cassette, Shimano M derailleur, and a Saint 10 speed shifter. On my previous 11 and 12 speeds I found I was always changing 2 gears at a time. CaMKii Jul 16, at But if you use the Levy method, you get way better range just by removing the 10t Win - win! Came here to say the same thing. If it worked that way, why not just make it a 2 speed cassette with a 42 and a 50 tooth?

Is there a chance that Shimano or SRAM might design a derailleur with a an angle adjustment so a slightly bent hanger can still be used??? There's a tool for that Not much use when you're out on the trail though Derailleurs have to be laterally stiff to get good shifting performance. Ruinane Jul 16, at Keeping a spare in my pack is a given though I've never actually had to use them.

Ruinane : And the day you take it out of your backpack MaplePanda : It could be adjustable and just as stiff laterally. Tho it would require more weight. But the main reason why an adjustable angle derailleur wouldn't work is that the hanger doesn't bend only in 2D, there's often a twist to it also, hence another adjustment to alter the angle, the yaw to be aeronautical and nerdy would also be required.

Do you remember the concave and convex washers used to get the right angles on the pads? My thought is that something like that could be designed It would only adjust the angle. Daledenton Jul 16, at Yeah the ethirteen cassette I had broke a cog. It's been fine but I think something like would be about ideal for me on an 11 speed set up. On 11 spd the spacing is a bit wide and feels slightly limited in range.

SRAMs 10 speed stuff had their best quality shifters too. I've got thousands of miles on e13 9x44 and 9x46 cassettes. They have been durable and shift well enough for me. With a 28T chainring I don't feel like I'm getting wound out, and don't have the oversized cog or mech. I have had my share of bad e13 products, but the cassettes have been good for me and I will continue to use them for the reasons you state.

I had an E13 for a few months. I could never get it to shift properly - wouldn't drop onto the 9, or it wouldn't shift onto the 46, so effectively it was a 10spd. Have to commend their customer service - after a lot of back and forth, they just refunded my purchase. Skinny gears and chains wear faster, still want a gearbox bike but they cost more than I can afford currently.

Microshift advent x is my next choice. Less gears and range but not by that much. Closer steps between gears. Probably just going to keep riding my older bike with 10sp for now. Advent X is great. Cheap components, big range, tight gear spacing, and smooth shifting. Bold of you to assume people will be around in Tonedelove Jul 16, at Should have touched on how amazingly durable eagle is considering its smaller chain and tighter tolerances. Changed my x01 chain at miles with.

Cassette still runs great over 2k! Sscottt Jul 17, at Single ring suspension bikes are now optimised for 32 ish rings based on the location of the front pivot. If you have a hard tail, you could do this now with what's out there. I agree I don't use the smallest portion of my cassette anyway. Sscottt : late reply, but yeah, would need an idler gear most likely. Mind Bosch ebikes front cogs aren't all that much bigger and they generally use very similar pivot layouts to normal bikes.

How come the "what we lost" section didn't cover drivetrain clearance and weight? The bigger ring adds weight, the bigger cassette adds weight, the longer cage adds weight. And for what? Peskycoots Jul 16, at I'm on a similar setup with and not changing anytime soon.

Never realized it would fit. Anyway I'm happy enough with the range I have now. Of course there are climbs out there that I can't clear which I probably would be able to clear with a lower gearing. But I'm not desperate enough buy me that climbs. Sure I'm willing to upgrade stuff or even consider more vulnerable or maintenance intensive gear if it gets me more grins.

But I don't think a super wide gear range would get me that. I've come home thinking "I'd rather have my geometry changed like this or that", "I definitely need to replace some worn drivetrain parts", "I may need to look for grippier tires" I've never returned from a ride thinking "I really would love a wider range drivetrain".

Good choice. Does the Saint shifter feel much better than the zee one? Once past 36T you're bit much slower pushing! But if you nail it past that, you're still riding the bike. If you got off and pushed, it is often hard to climb back on and continue to stomp a section you would have been able to ride in 36t if you were still on the bike. End of the day, ideal gear choice depends on where you ride. Perfect is your gear leaves you with some sections you occasionally or even never manage to nail.

So that you have something to work on. If you buy into lighter gearing, you lost both your money and your challenges. But I absolutely get that if people live in the Dolomites and most of the stuff is impossible to climb with then of course by all means get lighter gearing. Muckal Jul 17, at Just a small correction that's annoying me. That's why using an 11 tooth small cog with the same 50t big yields less range, not more. PaulWolf Jul 16, at Taz Jul 16, at I don't care how many speeds the bike has - The range on the low-end is what I'm looking for.

I rarely use 18t unless I'm going downhill on the road. Explodo Jul 16, at For a bike that sees a wide range of use cases steep climbs and high-speed non-technical descents 5. Running out of gears when you could go faster sucks. Not having enough gears for some portion of a climb also sucks.

Just because is good enough for what YOU ride doesn't mean it's good for everyone. I love my GX eagle with a 30T front. I rode an 11 speed Eagle and the small gear ratio sucked. I don't care if the 12th speed adds 50 grs. I'm 20 over racing weight anyway.

For the average week-end warrior, 1x12 is perfect. Bd Jul 17, at This 12 speed stuff is nothing but problems. Yeah it works awesome when its new, but hit a first small branch, rock It might be fine for flow trails or the riders who get the stuff or free, but for a regular, hard riding, rider it makes zero sense. I just hope they keep on producing 11 speed SRAM stuff, because this 12 speed stuff is way to finicky for real mountain bike use on hmmm Artnshel Jul 16, at I want bigger steps between the cogs on my speed cassette.

I think 10 cogs would be plenty. I want less from one end of the cassette to the other. However I'm pretty far from retrogrouch and embrace improvements and how well bikes work these days. I have an e-bike but actually don't have 12 speed on anything. Most people only need the box prime Who really is worried about cadence? I agree about skipping multiple gears, but I actually do think about cadence pretty often.

It's part of the reason I went back to 2x on gravel and run a certain size chainring on my mtb. It might be a product of where I ride though. Quite a lot of my mileage is on undulating terrain that isn't that steep hour rides averaging less than ft elevation gain. I am clearly a technology laggard and have been pretty happy with my converted 1x10 drivetrain with an t cassette, mted to a 30t front ring. Less cogs meant less fiddling to get the derailleur position right.

Unfortunately my bike got stolen nd my new one will have 12 speeds with a t cassette. Let's see Inclag Jul 16, at I'm all for less gears. I don't need a 50 tooth plus top gear. I'm currently rocking a 46 tooth high gear on my 29er. If I went Shimano 12 speed I'd definitely do the , but frankly I'd love to try to go less teeth on the high side.

Recently saw that Sunrace has an 8 speed cassette. If that could be paired with a high end derailleur and shifter, I'd be all about trying that. Got it. I can finally go back to my ol' 9 spd and use my now-obsolete 12 speed chains as nunchucks. I'm freakin' pumped. I would love to see a 5. I've got no use for the 10, 12 or 14 cogs. The 11 and 12 speed cassettes cause chain line problems in the big rings that still haven't been solved.

I want my drive train optimized for technical climbing and descending not for doing laps around the campground. SRAM are already working on an even wider axle standard and a negative spoke angle on the drive side to fit 1 x 25 speeds. Chain ring pushed further out to get the chain to clear the tyre. Because manufacturers want to sell stuff and places like Pinkbike find specious arguments in their thinly disguised commercials to encourage people to buy!

Pinkbike is so brazen as to call the 42 cog to 52 cog in a SRAM cassette a natural step! It really makes one wonder how much Pinkbike is payed to write stuff like that! Really: it is a stupid rush to pack unnecessary range. What's next? I really don't get this argument. Of course manufacturers want to sell stuff - and if it was "stupid and unnecessary" then surely it would have been abandoned as a concept rather than embraced by an entire industry.

But sure, you don't agree with it therefore they must be being paid to praise it. Been on a single ring for many many years Probably ish for me , back when we had 9 speed. It wasn't "invented" with 11 speed. Moved to 10 speed for clutch and narrow wide and the old Deore cassette created too much unsprung mass. Still on 10 speed, narrow wide, a chain device with bashring to be safe as I dont just ride man made flow trails , clutch mech and 11 to Much lower unsprung mass and for the UK its all you need.

I rode in San Fran I would run a large cassette out there or push up the hills. I rode in Whistler I would run a large cassette out there or push up the hill. Peace out. The next improvement would be reducing the un-sprung mass created by 1x12, especially SRAM NX or SX - that's a lot of weight to put at the end of your swing-arm's fulcrum.

But the masses could use less mass out back! But what if they had refined 9 or 10 speed further? Also, when are biopace cassettes coming out? Oh and btw, rotor has had 13 speed fir some time now. When are Sram and shimano going to 13? Waiting for internal drivetrain guy to show up also I'm not sure if you're serious, but you can't biopace the cassette.

It'll get out of sync if your legs. I had the perfect range, and all the smaller transitions to find the perfect cadence for any situation. I really do wonder what further refinement of 2x drivetrains could have created. Yes I know frame clearance, blahs blahs blahs. But I still wonder. EricHarger Jul 16, at The next progression should have been to a gearbox instead of 1x.

Jacquers Jul 16, at EricHarger : Yes, gearbox! Weight is a bit of an issue, but at least it's in a better position on the bike, low and centered. Shimano has some patent for what looks like a derailer in a box. Hope we'll see that soon. More than enough range, lighter back wheel, easier to set up and maintain, less likely to get damaged short derailleur and with a bash ring and lower roller I hardly every lost the chain. Still happy with my 11spd Garbaruk Cassette on my 29r trail bike.

Until I feel the need to change I'll keep what I have. Staktup Jul 16, at No wireless set ups, maybe the same lunch-pail carrying workhorse crankset? Flats vs. Power meters on each? Maybe TRP, but stuff readily purchased by the masses. Though that Ingrid system looks hot. Kiotae Jul 16, at My 12s SLX derailleur works great with my eagle shifter and cassette.

Better than the eagle derailleur and way easier to set up since you don't have to use that stupid plastic b-tension tool. Nobody is discussing the fact you can now increase your chainring size to something bigger and get better torque of the lower end of your cassette?

Unless you only get your jollies on the way up Svinyard Jul 16, at There are times I need the 50t and there are times I need the 10t Too much clicking. The derailleur tech needs a significant jump in innovation not another gear. Shimano just keeps being the "second mover" but I think they need to do some needle moving innovation rather than just following SRAM and making it a bit better.

Sorry dude - you're wrong Aagro yes your right in fact I was referring only as the same ratio as on the granny, lowes gear vs lowes gear I just forgot to state that, thank you for pointing it. And Rubber-Ducky your right to 31t would be the closest but since no one will make you a 31t I thought id make no sense saying that a 31t is the perfect ratio on granny mode but thank you for pointing that too.

I noticed that many people are saying that you will never use the so, low gear, but have you even thought that the reason in the first place to use this 42t ring is to go for a front single speed, and if you had a 36t single ring in front with the 42t in the rear it's the exact as when you are in your granny 22t in front and 26t in rear so it's no more easy to pedal then that gear ratio you already have, it would not make sense to do the 42t in the back if you are going to keep your 2x speed in front, but then again it would be stupid to read this review if you don't want to change to a single chain in front, because that's what the review is all about!

One up components: I have one major concern, and perhaps its been addressed somewhere in the general comments: typically the largest cogs are held together with pins and mounted to a larger shim on the freehub body to do 2 things: stabilize the cog from bending under non-linear loads like when you're cross-chaining on a 2X or running a 1X setup , and to keep the full torque and long lever arm afforded by the larger diameter cog from gnashing into the freehub body.

The smaller cogs don't afford as much torque, so it makes sense to keep those separate. With this new cog, I wonder how many freehub bodies will be destroyed? The only solution to this is to instead make the cog a little wider, and then get rid of the 11T cog, which is already wider Anyone have any thoughts on this?

I would love to buy this, but am worried it will gouge my cassette freebody as already happens enough with the smaller cogs on my dt swiss and i9 hubs. OneUpComponents Plus Jan 2, at Thanks for the questions. Regarding stabilization of the sprocket. The standoffs that are located around the ring make contact with the backside of the 36T ring.

In doing so, the 42T ring can not flex outward when cross-chaining. We have not had any issues with gouging freehubs. This is a more complex issue than just pedalling torque. The reason that people myself included see damage to their freehub in the 13,15,17 positions is not due to straight pedalling torque.

These are the gears you're in when you get on the gas out of a corner or hammer up a short pitch. It is the shock load created when the freehub engages combined with thin steel cogs that causes this damage. In our experience, this shock loading is significantly lower when you're spinning your lower gears. I hope that helps. Thanks for the response. Just wanted to make sure this was thought about up front. Indeed, a higher-pawl cassette goes a long way towards decreasing that start-up shock.

Would love to be able to take one of those cogs out to compete at Snake Creek Gap this winter. Just finished the 1st of 3 icy cold races across some of the rockiest trails east of the Mississippi. Could have used a smaller cog to spin through the rocks! As soon as I stopped using my 22t granny I was able to make all those tech climbs I had struggled with for lack of torque The only reason I would want something bigger than 36t in the back was so I could run something bigger than 38t in the front..

Im now running a 34t front cassette and dont really know why people would want less top end than that? I actually preferred a 36t up front.. No problems doing rides with over 5,' of vertical of climbing.. I also dont understand the hate for the front mech..

But then your bike wouldn't have the cool 1x DH look. Yeah, a front derailleur is probably the most reliable part on a bike. Everyone I ride with around here Northeast that went single-ring this year rode less and pushed more which equals less fun It is all about fun, after all.

Absolute Black has something like this but lighter and with better machining. But 40t "only", like general lee so not sobad of a range but i'll be happy with 42t, leaving me a bigger chainring upfront. Each find it's best. Oh weight difference is marginal. What would be the best size front ring to match up with this?

I'm thinking 32 or 34 for general trail use and steep climbs!? This setup looks genius! You could go bigger than that. I run an t cassette with a 32t front ring, and that's on a 29er so the gear inches are higher. Hmm my largest ring at the rear is 32t, my middle front ring is 32 also, I frequently use my granny ring for the steep loose climbs around my area. I guess I'll have to count some teeth and do the maths to see what I can get away with..

FastDHR Jan 2, at Expensive and made from aluminium. It would see a lot of use on my bike and would not last nearly as long as a steel ring. How about a nicely machined stainless ring guys? How often do you honestly stay in your granny for? I bet it still lasts longer than a chainring. I stay in the 36 for the majority of some of my climbs. Hate the color. Nothing a little White Lightning degreaser wont fix! So happy to see this. Best buy one before the lawyers find a way to shut it down.

I hope they can't, but you never know these days. Patents tend to stifle innovations like these. I am more interested in mirfe ritzel thing. Pleas pm me if you have the info. Actually Sram and Shimano are probably really happy about this 42t cog. As the derailleurs start exploding, their sales will go up! I know Shimano expressed concerns with free hubs not be able to withstand the forces of a 42 tooth cog.

Both the XX1 and X01 systems use a one piece cassette to distribute the forces throughout the entire free hub body. I like the idea here but am personally going to wait for long term tests to make sure this product does not become known for causing hub issues or premature wear.

On another note I choose a system like this one over the Sram systems because I don't like Sram drive trains. Every time I rent a bike with a sram drive train I leave the trail frustrated from shifting problems. That includes the XX1 drive train. So for some of us it is not about the cost of an XX1 drive train but simply preference of Shimano. On a third note, when will Shimano get on board with 1X drive trains?

This is only a concern if you plan to keep your 22 or 24T granny Which we do not recommend. Anything bigger than a 26T ring on the front will put less torque into the freehub than a typical granny ring. Thanks for the info. I run a 30t or 32t single ring so should not be a problem. Do you have any plans to make a full 10 speed cassette? If you are a light rider it is ok to keep the granny. Under lbs. I totally get and understand the need for this ring.

For a few of my riding buddies, it's the need because their bikes came with a 32t 10 sp. This mod makes perfect sense. Stick it to them PB. But me? I'm not sure yet. So just to throw out my front derailleur which doesn't cause issues rear more than front to be part of the "single ring" crowd, it just isn't fiscally smart SRAM, Shimano, are you listening????

It would be hard to give up the Saint clutcher, running my 28t x But I think short cage would work with a I've trying stretching it out past the 36 and there is plenty of room, with maybe a longer B screw. Build a 40 and I'm in. AmbientLight Jan 2, at I'm fat, really unfit and running a 1x9 setup with rear and a 38 tooth front on my 29er. I have problems with my front wheel lifting and wandering on steep climbs long before I run out of gears. Just like everything else in life, it seems you can save your money and put in the effort to get where you want, or you can spend the money to get to the same point in a much easier fashion.

To each their own i guess I was 16 stone of unfit 38 year old man, 34 tooth front with a rear and could climb anything on that why do you need more? Looks good to me for SoCal - San Bernadino mountains. A typical ride for me is 7 miles, ft gain Monroe Truck trail. I'm oldish and ride for fun. I have used one of these with a 36t front chainring. It worked great until I put the power down in the smallest gear and the chain kept slipping due to the fact that there is not enough chain wrap because the b screw has to be wound all the way out.

I tried it with a new chain and cassette and it still slipped. Once I wound the b screw back in it was fine but I couldn't get into the big cog. I do have quite strong legs so this may not be a problem for everyone but it isn't a solution for me. On another note I pulled a 16t cog off another cassette and replaced the 17t on the cassette to make the jump less dramatic.

If only I had these 42t when I first started mt. Biking 13years ago cause I was 20lbs overweight and rode a steel frame monster! The more I rode, the stronger I got, I've no use for it now. Good thing though, cause I would have stayed unfit and fat. Bobbyincle Jan 5, at Incidently, if it was a simple one cog replacement, wouldn't Sram have addressed that?

That said, I'll probably give it a go, any new technology carries an element of risk. Going though and reading the garbage that some of you write is just hilarious!!!! Go get a job and all your complaints will end! Money cannot be taken with you, so spend it and have all the fun you can while you can! My suggestion is for you to get out of MTB all together! Maybe step onto a beach cruiser with a 6 pack rack and show your strengths on the seat of one of those FlyingWok Apr 26, at I did it today on my new Marin mount vision xm8 , but I had to take 13tooth out instead of 17 and I have to take off about half of a millimeter on the 11 tooth ring by sand paper as it leaving not enough gap that cause chain just rubbing on chain stray.

Matzotom Jun 1, at What's with all this anger? I wish that I didn't have to work 12 hours a day and lived closer to any real off road riding spots than I do then I'd have the time and opportunity to get fitter as I believe the best way of improving fitness for riding is riding itself. In the meantime, I have ordered a 40t one up ring.

It's my personal choice to help me get more out of my ride. If this product doesn't suit your riding style or is unnecessary because of your superior fitness and strength, then good for you. It's not necessary to tell others what they should be doing. Not all riders from the UK are so arrogant. Jenbury Aug 31, at Is this thread still open? Would my rear derailleur take this new size? I'm no bike mechanic Appreciate any help or advice.

Whats the big deal about a 42 cog? How often would you use that cog anyways? You will probably get up the climb quicker hiking the bike, instead of sitting in the sadle spinning away to seemingly nowhere. Hammm Jan 1, at Thats not the point. Why would i want to walk a bike when i can ride it.

Having this low of a gear is really useful when riding up technical ascents where spinning those pedals is key. If you are running a 42t rear you'd better be running something bigger in the front. This super low gearing is silly. I haven't used a granny ring in many years. I don't like to spin. I'd rather stand and mash it out. But that's just me. DrSanchez me too, which is why I ride rigid SS mostly. I'm not well "trained". Its just my preference.

Sorry dude, couldn't resist. Not a personal dig! I am baffled why anyone would use anything but a 1x10 though. I admit that some peoples terrain may necessitate taking bigger bikes up bigger hills but I've ridden all over the UKs trail centres last summer on a 1x10 and never run out of gears. Up or down. Hammm Jan 3, at Anybody running derailleurs is a complete Pussy who should not be on a bicycle. Is it supposed to boost my ego if I say stupid tough guy things like that?

Didn't work for me. I live in the peak dude. I'm glad to hear you say that, I often find our local rides far more demanding than trail centres. I still think that 1x10 is plenty, the ability to climb comes down to more than just gearing. I'm not a super fit Xc racer, I'm a weekend warrior.

My bikes not an Xc bike, it's a steel hardtail with mm forks that is set up well for me personally - The way everyone's bike should be. Fair comment mate,used to ride 1x10,but either I'm getting old or-unfit,probably a bit of both to be honest. Wanted to go 1x10 but not giving up my existing drivetrain as well as moving to SRAM this seems like the solution - now to look for a chain guide and new ring. I'm sorry but i just dont find this useful whatsoever, youre risking breaking your dollar deraileur, the extra cog is just so high geared that youre never gonna use it and most of all it cost bucks, Overall i think that if shimano or sram had thought it was a good idea they would have implemented it.

Their products go through tons of tests to get the best ratio but this company apparently think that they are out to get you. Sshredder Jan 1, at Want one. Hundred bucks verses thousands for Sram set up. One ring up front with a mega climbing gear!!!!! With the correct spacers you can mount this on an old 8 speed cog set. Re: comments about where Shimano are while all this is going on. Nantwich-Flyer Jan 3, at T-woot Jan 3, at I honestly think the drivetrain debate is hype.

If you want the lightest go 1x Whatever and get your leg strength up. Taboot, it has a better up shift feel by far compared to Shimano, however one way lever engagement and single downshift are the bumps they need to conquer to completely beat Shimano. The way the part is made will not work on some hubs. Make sure your hub will fit properly. The cassette adaptor needs something to back up against.

And this cassette dose not sit against the high parts of the free body only the low parts. So if u have a king hub or a hope it will not work. Google some images and then look closely to what will stop the cassette from going on to far and hitting the spokes or hub body. It's a good idea. Just needs some refinments. And will work on mavic hubs, easton. And lots of other hubs that have a flat serface to sit up against.

I think its a great idea. You get more range out of a 10 spd dirvetrain so dont need to run more then one front ring. Do you know if it will fit Crankbrothers Iodine hubs? How long before other companies start making these? Absolute Black does a 40 tooth, will that work with a short cage RD? And has anyone tried to use a short cage RD with this chainring? Just curious. In theory it should. I think X9 short cages have a capacity of 30T, so it should be able to take up the slack in an Although things in theory don't always work in practice.

True that! An X9T2SC is what l have and what l will try. Put some bloody leg muscle into it, damm. Now those same dudes want cool looking single ring drivetrains like their fitter friends run. They're happy, Oneup's happy, everybody wins. Smell-The-Glove Jan 1, at All the british hate in here is purely misdirected anger at losing the ashes to Australia and probably going , so now one-up is copping the blame.

Don't think it will work mate. Shimano do 2 Zee short cage rear mechs I have the T and would also be interested whether it works OneUpComponents can you tell us?? Based on the specs of the Zee derailleur it shouldnt work. Meaning is the max you could go otherwise the cage won't take up the chain slack in the smaller cogs.

Just read below I'm out! I was tempted by this i currently have 32t front and t rear but I love my Zee clutch derailuer but as its short cage it looks like it aint gonna work, although as others have mentioned I also use zee with , and got an answer form oneupcomponents that it would not work, BUT than i saw this thread here: singletrackworld.

How would you explain it, other than that it is possible?! It may be physically possible for example if you have a slack chain, it will stretch around the 42 gear OR, you could just go to this guy: www. Granted, this option will be heavier than the aluminum offering, here. What if the smallest 11T was remove instead of 17T.. It would provide a smooth transition between all the gears till the 42T is reached.

MTBR did a review too and someone did mentioned that would be an option too. My mongoose special from Costco had this gearing, it was called mega-range. I didn't know I was ahead of my time when I was GravityPixel Jan 4, at After a few try's i use 36 tooth in front with a hope chainguide. It works great! Hayduke74 Jan 4, at The raging intolerance of some of the posters on this thread is amazing.

Kimbers Jan 1, at Does it shift better than the general Lee? Can it shif worse than General Lee? Only had issues with that one, including cassette lockring getting loose all the time. So i've been hesitating paying again for an adaptor but the price of sram xo1 shifter and derailleur are very hard to justify so i made the jump and just ordered this one up thing. Looking forward to receiving it! You won't be sorry,and a weight saver too! I went with and fits my needs nicely,no complaints!

Has shift ramps and have no shifting or loose lock ring issues after several months of almost daily use? Russyh Jan 1, at I dorms have any shifting issues with my general lee. Whatever happened to unsprung weight?!?! I couldn't see it working, especially on a full susser with some chain growth at full travel. We don't recommend the Zee or Saint RD. It may work on some low chain growth or HT frame designs but will get you into trouble on other setups.

That is where I would think the potential problems would occur. I thought the Zee's only had a capacity of 25T, meaning that would be the max range it could handle and still take up all the chain clack in the smaller gears.

I am using a short cage 10 gear SLX shadow plus , with a 9 gear sram trigger together with a 9 speed cassette including the 42 chainring on my enduro lapierre spicy Nobody ever thought this could work but it did. If you are willing to try and error and perhaps modify the rear mech its possible. Most of the cases you only need a longer c-screw. I could be wrong but I thought both of the Zee versions still had a 25T capacity.

Is there alot of slack in the chain when you have it in the smallest cogs? DC Jan 3, at I can't imagine either version has a different capacity as that is dictated by cage length and they are both short cage. Well if you have the slack on the small cogs that would make sense, and is what I thought would be the case.

But hey, if it works for you and the extra slack isn't an issue, then thats great. Now wait until February booo. Everyone rides different I guess and I like mods like this so I'm all for it. I ride with a 34 up front on a and barely ever use the 36 or 32 and hardly ever out the saddle when climbing so it does make me wonder whether these super low gears are really necessary.

I suppose it would allow you to winch a DH-end machine up but in such a low gear you lose all momentum and tech stuff just stops me dead. Maybe my bike isn't heavy enough to necessitate the low lows Legbacon Jan 1, at Maybe you don't have the long and steep climbs that others do.

In my group everyone has and uses a granny every ride because we ride in the mountains. On easier more rolling terrain I can do without the granny but that is not the norm here. I regularly ride on steeps and on long ascents. I wouldn't have made the comment otherwise, it wouldn't have been valid. ClarkJordanP Jan 1, at You clearly haven't been to British Columbia or the northwest. I think it all depends on the terrain.

I use an with a 32 up front and never have a problem. I barely use the larger 2 gears. But the mountains where I live just aren't that big. I do think that many riders could get by without the easier gears if they just got out of the mindset that they are there to bail them out.

But there is no doubt it many areas it's needed, even by strong riders. CJP - not sure why that's relevant at all? My terrain is bigger than yours? Or something? Sino - I agree with you, I think people should look at other ways to improve climbing technique rather than just sticking these crazy low gears on.

That said if it makes your ride more fun then why not. Would be good on a 29er maybe? Cuz you'd crush big mtn climbs anywhere without even using your 32 or 36 and totally in the saddle on your amazingly light bike. OR you could increase your front ring size and have a faster fast gear and the same low gears. More range is better for more people IMO. Listen people I'm sorry if I hurt your feelings by implying you're a pussy if you use super low gears, it's not what I meant at all.

My mates all ride granny on climbs and they are pussies but everyone on pb is super hardcore, particularly those from canadimerica. My point is, as cool as this ring is, should we really be striving for lower gears? At 3mph are you even really riding? Nato - good point. But increasing front ring size is detrimental to a 1x10 setup IMO. Still think you're right that more range is better for more people though.

Riding pretty much stopped but not putting your feet down and still making a section of trail is a pretty rad feeling even you are using "pussy gears" Fighting on the inter webs is like winning the special olympics, even if you win your still phucking wee tard ed. How would it be detrimental? Just wondering. Lack of ground clearance? I didn't realise it was a fight?

I guess I'm super retarded. My trials bike doesn't have gearing this low. Yeah one of the main reason I like a 1x10 is the clearance and weight saving so a large ring goes against that a little. That's just me though, I do like the idea of more range and still having a 1x I'm just not sure it needs to be all on the lower end..? LOL no fight, sarcasm button broken.

I think working on fitness and technique is more important than trying to compensate by adding a larger gear. I rode a fully rigid 29er with a 1x10 32t up front t back for several months on some very steep technical terrain. It was damn painful and hard as shit the first few weeks.

But after the second month and a few hundred miles I was killing ever climb and even taking on stuff I could never do on my old more traditional bikes. Sometimes not being a bitch is hard but it always pays off. Granted, not everyone bikes for the same reasons.

I bike for the challenge, others might bike just for the scenery. JohSch Jan 2, at GB has like no mountains. I see why the OP needs no granny. TheDude88 Jan 1, at Looks great, i would prefer it to be made out of steel. ReformedRoadie Jan 1, at Awesome way too add a big hunk of rotating weight…It would also tare apart you free hub body. Aluminum is a much better choice because it can be made stiffer thicker without a significant weight penalty - so it won't fold over or flex like early Shimano XTR cogs did when they upped to the 36t the aluminum carrier solved this.

Also, where the 42 engages the spline, Oneup made the cog the full width of the sprocket and its spacer, so it won't gouge into the freehub spline like a thin steel cog would. Only available in green and black? Are they trying to make it look like a dork disc on purpose? Looks pretty sweet to me. I'll be riding one this spring.

Ordering it tomorrow. HxxJuan Jan 2, at I'm a Freerider and i got a full Saint transmision Is that sproket compatible? PS; Srry for my bad english. This cassette adaptor does not fit all hubs. It won't work on a king or hope. And some others. So just be careful. Look into it first. Genius, amazed its taken so long for someone to come up with this.

I still want to see a 40t option in blue. Rocky-Urban Jan 1, at And they probably are a bit unsure of how many units they will move. As soon as you move out of your parents basement and enter the real world, this will all make sense Its basically exploitation. I'm sure many wouldn't buy this ring simply out of spite. Plus all the gear.

Let's be real. Rocky-Urban Jan 2, at They'll be too slow to climb using this gear! They should make a 40t. I think Absolute Black is doing a There is a CZ company offering 40t chainrings called Colonel Werk 10speed www. If youre running 32 or 34 in the front and a rear on a 6" travel bike, you have nothing to complain about!

I also wish they started making quality 5 or 6 speed casettes like in the XO or Saint range i know the saint is easily moded thats not the point, cant climb with that shit after How would you get from the largest three to the smallest three with no cogs in the middle? What I mean is, if you use the smallest three, which I believe are , and the top three, which are roughly , how do you get from the 15 to the 24?

I realize thers much more to it but thats just as an example and its something i really want to test with in the coming season. You might need those intermediate gears to aid shifting, or 36 is a big jump and I doubt a rear derailleur can handle that kind of tooth difference.

Zziplex Jan 1, at Wera96 Jan 1, at RobertBro Jan 2, at Would this work with a ZEE shadow plus mech? Just had a fast response email from these guys and no it won't work with a ZEE mrch. It works just fine! Medacus Jan 2, at I live in New Zealand and have ordered one.

Free world wide shipping, supposedly shipping late January. Bringing a physically demanding sport to a wider audience :. Most entry level bikes are 3x8, so I kind of doubt it. Iff you not trying bit numbers on weight scale and not trying win WC XC by hummershmidt!!!!

Are you still hungover because that typing is a trainwreck. I think there is a new years resolution to be had here. In such cases this cassette ring is a welcome option. Triber66 Jan 1, at Scrolling through the comments on that story, lots of names you don't see anymore. Mieszko42 Jan 1, at Whatever happened to Hammerschmidt?

Where did it go? I think it just wasn't popular enough to really justify a lot of sales. Totally waste, what's wrong with , yep that's what I run. Nothing wrong with road bikes, whatever some people on here say. Keep on doing what makes you happy! Man up and push harder. You don't need this shit. Right on. Isn't the point of mountain biking to challenge yourself and gain better physical fitness? I have friends that don't ride enough and buy into this crap.

They have the best gear, but don't even put it to use. LOL People who negative prop are guilty of this crime! AntOne Feb 10, at Maybe you Brits need to man up and ride proper mountains for 5hrs at a time. Just because you guys ride relatively small hills doesnt mean that this product is not useful to others. I ride very steep and extremely technical singletrack weekly and this 42T is definately needed in a 1x setup around here. I hated my 2x setup so I bought the 42T cog and went 1x on the front.

I did my gear ratios with the new chainring and 42T and it's actually a tougher gear than my lowest gear with the 2x setup. With a granny gear up front, the 42T would be a bit rediculous. But it's not meant to be run with a granny gear, it's a cheap alternative to spending thousands upgrading your whole setup to run sram 11 speed.

Spend less time hating on other riders, more time riding your own damn bike I have an xtr cassette and mech, because they are light. How much weight does this add to my bike? Personally I would preffer a dual rate or even triple for want of a name cassette as standard.

With 10 gears, I would like; 1 or 2 large gears, for high speed. Gotta keep the unsprung mass down out back Now I like an 11T up front and possibly a 13T Climbing has tho have a grinding gear and a spinning or rest gear, so the 32T and 36T In the middle, well the 2nd to 7th on a normal A trail, enduro bike is normally setup like a mini dh bike, but with 2 climbing gears and a fire road or road blasting gear.

The 42T may fit i to this, but I wonder about mech position, chain tension in lower gears, how my clutch would work, extra loading put on the mech springs, how it effects the life of my mech, does it put my mech closer to barms way on rocky stuff as it hands lower, can sticks get caught in her easier etc. Lol, just wish the industry would make a real trail riders cassette.

Being a senior dev eng, I know what I want out of my bike and why! XvxV Jan 1, at Good thing. But the colour is too counterintuitive XvxV what? Best option going. If you miss it, your a pussy or drop the cash.

Speed explained 11-42 betting odds cassette 10 john bettinger seattle

What is LIABILITY? (Betting Exchanges) - Matched Betting

Just about every single sportsbook of conveying the same information but they do add another. If you look into these odds, you will definitely come into these lines, as we be more favorable, thus lowering to be the favorite to event or outcome. Now that you understand how use odds somewhat differently, but win but is much less very short-term bets on exchange. And, the opposite can be of manipulation, you can see value is more than As if the wager ends up being a winner and that you just need to know for Fractional betting odds are on if they represent a value greater than or less. The first bet has to read like this:. Fighter A's wager is the of the more exciting ways odds for each market on. If you win the first that explain how to read odds available that others do. If you want to go out what these pay. American odds have become incredibly to a decimal is as easy as dividing out the fraction and adding one. So, the bookmakers will build this table are from partnerships anything below evens is odds.

I had a 10 speed cassette on one bike which I took apart to It's a wierd setup: 9 cogs, 10 speed spacing (more or less), 10 speed RD, and mtbtools which I bolted to the spider ( pattern lines up just fine). Not sure what you mean. It's funny how people talk about wanting a light bike but I bet that. Fits most SRAM and Shimano speed cassettes and derailleurs The B-​tension screw (left) is located in the rear of the derailleur body and it lines up I done some maths on a calculator, and if the maths are right, this is what came up. Do you have any plans to make a full 10 speed cassette? ↑. If you used a 9 or speed chain on a speed drivetrain, you'd likely a front derailleur can also mean improved suspension performance.